Pickhill Bantam 180a Refurb. Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 Next Turbo, May 3, 2018 #1. Remember and oil cooled welder is for life not just Christmas pressbrake1.
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- Pickhill Bantam oil filled arc welder. The vendor also undertakes to provide the buyer all operators’ handbooks and instruction manuals. If required to do so.
Pickhill Bantam Oil Welder Manual For Sale
Thanks all, this is all really good advice. I remember seeing it years ago in the hands of the blacksmith who welded our farm equipment with it (and built a huge bale trailer out of girders and axles from the scrappy's), so I know it's a good piece of kit.
You're right, there's no gauges on it, I did find a couple of pictures on the web of what the top looks like (going out there this weekend to try and spark it up, see what's what) and will see if these relate. My father reckons:
'the amps are 20 to 180 and 30 to 135, the volts are 50 or 80 one setting is coarse'
Sounds about right, and he has the full 3-phase supply out there so roll on this weekend. But first, I need to get myself some rods and a mask. I'm hoping to weld a small bracket on a tailgate that fell off so it's going to be low-power for first attempt.
Can anyone advise what rods I might need for the steel bracket on the tailgate for a land rover ? Sorry, I know this is probably a pretty newbie-ish question but it would be good to get it right if I could rather than spend my time worrying if I'm doing it right :)
Recommends for a decent-ish (under £100 please!) auto-darkening helmet would also be handy, thanks :)
You're right, there's no gauges on it, I did find a couple of pictures on the web of what the top looks like (going out there this weekend to try and spark it up, see what's what) and will see if these relate. My father reckons:
'the amps are 20 to 180 and 30 to 135, the volts are 50 or 80 one setting is coarse'
Sounds about right, and he has the full 3-phase supply out there so roll on this weekend. But first, I need to get myself some rods and a mask. I'm hoping to weld a small bracket on a tailgate that fell off so it's going to be low-power for first attempt.
Can anyone advise what rods I might need for the steel bracket on the tailgate for a land rover ? Sorry, I know this is probably a pretty newbie-ish question but it would be good to get it right if I could rather than spend my time worrying if I'm doing it right :)
Recommends for a decent-ish (under £100 please!) auto-darkening helmet would also be handy, thanks :)
Pickhill Bantam Oil Welder Manual Pdf
OK, I found the problem.
I used a mobile crane to lift off the lid. *All* the electro-mechanical contents are bolted to the underside of the lid on this model, so you can actually remove the complete workings from their oil bath with no difficulty (assuming you have some means of handling the weight involved).
The fault was immediately apparent. This type of welder has course and fine amperage adjustments as detailed elsewhere in this thread. The contacts of the course adjustment were virtually mint in their almost Victorian splendor. The fault was with the fine adjustment. Both adjustments rely on exactly the same system: transformer tappings determined by the movement of pointers described elsewhere on this thread. On the business end of the pointers' shafts down below the oil level, there's a contact in the form of a copper blade about 2mm thick which engages between the slot of a four-way range of springy copper receptacles. On the fine adjustment described, there is unmistakable evidence of heavy arching and charring during previous operation which to fix up goes beyond what a mere clean-up and re-profile would achieve.
I want to rescue this beast. There's nothing like an oil-cooled arc welder for tackling the real heavy jobs and despite their weight, you just can't beat 'em. So the question now is.... - please take note those here that dip into threads without reading the background first - .... where in the UK can I get oil-cooled arc welder spares, or if not that, then 1mm and 2mm thick copper sheet I can trim, bend and fit myself?
cheers.
I used a mobile crane to lift off the lid. *All* the electro-mechanical contents are bolted to the underside of the lid on this model, so you can actually remove the complete workings from their oil bath with no difficulty (assuming you have some means of handling the weight involved).
The fault was immediately apparent. This type of welder has course and fine amperage adjustments as detailed elsewhere in this thread. The contacts of the course adjustment were virtually mint in their almost Victorian splendor. The fault was with the fine adjustment. Both adjustments rely on exactly the same system: transformer tappings determined by the movement of pointers described elsewhere on this thread. On the business end of the pointers' shafts down below the oil level, there's a contact in the form of a copper blade about 2mm thick which engages between the slot of a four-way range of springy copper receptacles. On the fine adjustment described, there is unmistakable evidence of heavy arching and charring during previous operation which to fix up goes beyond what a mere clean-up and re-profile would achieve.
I want to rescue this beast. There's nothing like an oil-cooled arc welder for tackling the real heavy jobs and despite their weight, you just can't beat 'em. So the question now is.... - please take note those here that dip into threads without reading the background first - .... where in the UK can I get oil-cooled arc welder spares, or if not that, then 1mm and 2mm thick copper sheet I can trim, bend and fit myself?
cheers.
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